
I’m taking a little break from my pathetic life to tell you about my impressions of Vilnius (only).
APRIL 10TH, THE DAY I ARRIVED
After five hours of sleep, brick shitting moments (Czech Airlines canceled my reservation without making another one) and pityful facial expressions which earned me a seat in an Air France plane, I landed in Vilnius. I was somewhat disoriented since I was in a completely unknown linguistic environment.
While waiting for the bus – a.k.a trying to avoid clouds of cigarette smoke and taxi drivers -, I learnt basic phrases in Lithuanian… but carefully avoided learning questions requiring a complex answer. I would have found find it awkward to ask a question but not to understand the answer. As for the rest, I supposed tourist sign language might be international.
The bus finally came. I got in and proudly asked in Lithunian: “Ar kalbate angliškai?” He kindly smiled. “Ne.” So I flipped on through the pages of my guide book. As we arrived, the bus driver saw I was looking for a street and stepped off his vehicle to help me. It was very, very kind of him!
It was cold, but I was lucky it was not freezing. Piles of deicing salt (?) were telling me winter just came to an end in Lithuania. I walked up, carefully avoided the round cobblestones (it’s not that fun to have my foot stuck between them) paving narrow winding streets. I also double-checked the traffic lights before crossing the street since it sometimes looked identical to those meant for cars. As I reached the Old Town, I could see that façades were well restaured and colourful. I also knew I just needed to look up to see crosses everywhere. I reached the hostel, dropped my stuff and went out.
CHECK LIST
—> Wander until my fingers froze: CHECK!
—> Smile at kids who couldn’t help but stared at me – not that I am that ugly, I just looked different from local people. CHECK!
—> Meet weird people: CHECK, and RE-CHECK!
1) A quite normal looking guy randomly asked if someone could speak English. As an idiot, I thought he needed a piece of information and said yes. He explained he was Russian, that he wasn’t that well accepted in Lithuania, blabla, and that he needed money to go back to Russia. A Lithuanian guy walked by and gave me a “bummer” look. As I told the Russian I was sorry, he said fuck you. Riiiiight.
2) I met one of the most embarrassing guy. I was in the restaurant with a backpacker. He started making gestures from our table to his. I first didn’t understand: *What, exchange tables??! Oh, I got it, you want us at your table? Sorry to decline your offer, and please do not think it is because you are acting like a PERV.* I ignored him. He said (read: shouted) “HELLO!!” every now and then, and as we were still ignoring him, he started hitting his foot against the floor. RIIIIGHT, that was exactly the sign we were looking for to start flirting.
—> Count all the security cameras of the city: UNCHECK! For your information, the entire city is under surveillance. There is no street corner without a camera. It prevents people from robbing each other and from drawing graffiti on the walls.
—> Admire the façades: CHECK! Even though they are not restaured, they still have pastel tones.
—> Take every paths to inner courtyards: half CHECK! Courtyards are always full of surprise. You either discover a well kept front lawn/garden or old façades.
SHOPS AND FOOD
As expected, I found:
- Many shops selling amber and linen – Lithuania is reputed for those products. I like how transparent amber captures the light, but life’s a bitch and I needed to save money, so… I passed my way.
- Flower shops: they’re important as it’s common to bring flowers whenever you visit someone.
- Market stalls: once they were close, they would become a sort of photograph exhibition.
- Halės market. I felt hungry because of the smoked meat. A fish stall attracted many, many clients because there was a table in the corner where one could help oneself with smoked herring in tomato sauce. It was so good I bought 770g of it.
As for the other local food I tried:
- black rye bread (I must have downed 2 kg of this, it has a sweet minty-like taste. It tastes even better with some bitter orange marmelade! I definitely miss it!!)
- cepelinai (zeppelin: dumplings made from potato dough filled with ground meat. A bit tasteless in my opinion)
- potato sausages (grilled casing filled mashed potato, the taste was interesting)
- potato pancakes (as you may have guessed, potato is a local specialty)
- koldūnai (ravioli)
- ŠALTIBARŠČIAI: I loved, L-O-V-E-D it!! It looks very surprising as it is bright pink. It’s eaten cold with some sautéed potatoes. I found out this soup also exists in the rest of Eastern Europe (the recipe must slightly differ though), and I surely will nag my American-Polish friend to have her make me some. (What? How dare you think I pick my friends depending on their cooking skills?!)
- Not a local specialty, but I was craving for some junk food. I got a huuuuuuge Döner – something like 30 or 40 cm long – for about 3€ with breaded chicken instead of lamb and much yoghurt sauce. It took me one hour to end it. Too yummy.
THE ODYSSEY TO THE OLD JEWISH CEMETERY
The Old Jewish Cemetery is located outside the Old Town. As my map did not show it, I befriended Google Map. According to it I just needed to head north and cross the river to find it. I went there, got avoided by a woman who thought I wanted to ask money while I just wanted to ask my way as all I could see were parking lots and appartment buildings. I finally found two men who could speak English. They advised me to go to the hotel nearby for they would surely know where the cemetery was located. Guess what, the receptionists had no idea what I was talking about. As I walked out I stole their Vilnius In Your Pocket guide and realized my friend needed a slap/update: Google Map showed me where the first Old Jewish cemetery was located but forgot to mention it was DESTROYED. The “new” “Old Jewish cemetery” was located in the northwestern part of the city. I took a bus, went uphill, breathed in fresh gasoline-laden air, crossed some fields, and FINALLY found it. It was hu-u-uge. I wandered through the graves and saw crosses… all kinds of crosses, and flowers too, but no Jewish graves. I went back after having fait chou blanc. I was later told Jews had a very small concession in this cemetery and it was separated from the rest of the graves by a wall. The “Jewish” of “Old Jewish Cemetery” is slightly deceptive.
UŽUPIS
A.k.a the Little Montmartre. It’s an alternative “Republic” located in Vilnius. My description won’t do justice to the impression one may get. Oh, and as all Republics, it has its constitution:
Everyone has the right to live by the River Vilnelė, while the River Vilnelė has the right to flow by everyone.
Everyone has the right to hot water, heating in winter and a tiled roof.
Everyone has the right to die, but it is not a duty.
Everyone has the right to make mistakes.
Everyone has the right to individuality.
Everyone has the right to love.
Everyone has the right to be not loved, but not necessarily.
Everyone has the right not to be distinguished and famous.
Everyone has the right to be idle.
Everyone has the right to love and take care of a cat.
Everyone has the right to look after a dog till one or the other dies.
A dog has the right to be a dog.
A cat is not obliged to love its master, but it must help him in difficult times.
Everyone has the right to sometimes be unaware of his duties.
Everyone has the right to be in doubt, but this is not a duty.
Everyone has the right to be happy.
Everyone has the right to be unhappy.
Everyone has the right to be silent.
Everyone has the right to have faith.
No one has the right to use violence.
Everyone has the right to realize his negligibility and magnificence.
Everyone has the right to encroach upon eternity.
Everyone has the right to understand.
Everyone has the right to understand nothing.
Everyone has the right to be of various nationalities.
Everyone has the right to celebrate or not to celebrate his birthday.
Everyone shall remember his name.
Everyone may share what he possesses.
No-one can share what he does not possess.
Everyone has the right to have brothers, sisters and parents.
Everyone is capable of independence.
Everyone is responsible for his freedom.
Everyone has the right to cry.
Everyone has the right to be misunderstood.
No-one has the right to make another person guilty.
Everyone has the right to be personal.
Everyone has the right to have no rights.
Everyone has the right to not be afraid.
Do not defeat.
Do not fight back.
Do not surrender.
I can rant on for hours, but I pity you.